When I was talking to the Costas about the must-sees in Europe, we joked that a European vacation could be summarized by going to every city and doing the same three things: climbing to the top of a tall thing, visiting a beautiful religious building, and tasting a local delicacy. Having been here for a couple days shy of six months, I've realized that that's sometimes true. Even if it doesn't encapsulate all of it (it's missing Italy's endless supply of medieval baby Jesus paintings, for example), I've done all of those things on just about every trip. Here they are for each trip this semester.


  • Paris
  • High thing: My High Thing of choice for the semester hasn't been the usual Eiffel Tower, but instead Montmartre. I've been up to Sacré Cœur at least five times this semester, and I've been up in the towers twice. Sacré Cœur is really privileged to have such an amazing view of Paris. The only view that might be better would be from the Tour de Montparnasse, since you could see Montmartre itself...and you couldn't see the Tour de Montparnasse.
  • Religious building: Along with Sacré Cœur, I've been to Notre Dame many, many times. It's a beautiful building from the front and the back, the inside and the outside.
  • Local delicacy: Where to begin...I've eaten my fill of macarons from Ladurée, Pierre Hermé, la Grande Épicerie, Larnicol... Any flavor you can imagine, they've made, from the classic chocolate, hazelnut, and rose to the more esoteric Sichuan pepper, lemongrass ginger, or mint and peas. Pierre Hermé's Ispahan (two giant rose macarons filled with fresh raspberries and lychee cream) gets a special mention too, of course.
  • Belgium
  • High thing: In Brussels, this has got to be the Atomium, the bizarre body-centered cubic crystal unit left over from the world's fair. In Bruges it's the Belfort, the striking bell tower looking over the main square. You can see the whole city from one side and the north sea from the other.
  • Religious building: The main church in Bruges, where the Belfort is.
  • Local delicacy: Waffles, fries, beer, chocolate...I have Belgium to thank for my nascent spare tire. Oyya waffles in Bruges serves the best Liège waffles, with a slightly caramelized crust. They should give me commissions, since I've sent so many people to them since February.
  • Strasbourg/Baden-Baden/Freiburg
  • High thing: We took the funicular up the Merkurberg, which gave a beautiful vista of the fog rising out of the Black Forest and coming into Baden-Baden below.
  • Religious building: The Strasbourg cathedral and the Freiburg cathedral were both imposing masterpieces. The Strasbourg Munster is unlike any other cathedral in France, with its clear German style, but the intricate sculptures and imposing towers were striking.
  • Local delicacy: So much good food... the first night in Strasbourg, we went to a winstub, where I had an onion tart as my appetizer, chicken with spaetzle for my main course, and an apple tart for dessert, washed down with the most delicious Pinot Gris from the Cave de Turckheim. The chicken was in a sweet Riesling cream sauce and the spaetzle were lightly pan fried in butter, so the whole thing was fatty and rich in the most amazing way. Our last day, we had Flammekueche, the Alsatian take on pizza, with crème fraîche, bacon, onions, and emmental. In Freiburg, of course, we had some Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, and in Baden-Baden, I got döner for lunch. I don't know if that counts as a local specialty, but it beats any kebab I've had in France.
  • Pisa
  • High thing: The Leaning Tower! Except that I didn't end up climbing it. The Battistero definitely counts as a high thing though.
  • Religious building: The Piazza dei Miracoli is four religious buildings all rolled into one.
  • Local delicacy: Gelato and Pizza from a small stand off the main street, as well as a burger from the shop the guidebook recommended. I couldn't really communicate much yet, so I ordered the daily special, which turned out to be a flatbread sandwich with a beef patty, provolone cheese, mushrooms, butternut squash, and sage, which was the perfect winter sandwich.
  • Florence
  • High thing: I climbed up to the Piazzale Michelangelo, a hill across the Arno from the center of the city, which offers a beautiful view.
  • Religious building: The Duomo is the most imposing, impressive cathedral I have seen yet, towering over the rest of the city. The Basilica Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella weren't bad either though.
  • Local delicacy: All'Antico Vinaio could be my lunch every day for the rest of my life and I would be happy.
  • Sienna
  • High thing: The towers of the Duomo, which provided my Facebook cover photo. The ramparts of the Medici fortifications were also amazing.
  • Religious building: The Duomo again, since that's the center of any Italian town. Sienna's had an especially beautiful collection in the adjoining museum.
  • Local delicacy: Grom gelato. I know it's a chain with a few locations, but it was genuinely some of the best gelato I've had. I got the tiramisù, marron glacé, and gianduja.
  • Barcelona
  • High thing: The Parc Güell, where you can see all of the city. Next stop...the top of the Sagrada Familia?
  • Religious building: The Sagrada Familia, finally checked off of my bucket list. The outside is very impressive, but was slightly underwhelming after all of the hype. The inside, on the other hand, was marvelous. Gaudi designed the most disorienting yet natural space, and created a symphony of light streaming through the glass. Stunning and unlike any other basilica.
  • Local delicacy: Tapas anyone? Padrón peppers were my favorite, but I can never turn down calamari, jamón ibérico, or anything with goat cheese. Pà amb tomàquet was also surprisingly delicious.
  • Reims
  • High thing: For one there wasn't really a high thing on my day in Reims.
  • Religious building: The cathedral of Reims, with its post-WWII reconstructed stained glass.
  • Local delicacy: Champagne, of course, selected by none other than David.
  • Amsterdam
  • High thing: This could definitely have been a pun, if I hadn't been there with my family.
  • Religious building: Amsterdam isn't much of a religious city, and the Netherlands isn't much of a religious country, although the church across from the train station was beautiful. The religious building that really comes to mind is the Anne Frank House, where her family lived.
  • Local delicacy: Poffertjes and stroopwaffels of course. The Indonesian food we had was amazing as well.
  • London
  • High thing: Again, I'm at a loss for high things. We didn't do the Eye this time or climb up any towers. The Millennium Bridge gives a great vantage point, and I guess it's high above the Thames. Does that count?
  • Religious building: We walked past St Paul's and admired it but didn't go in. Again, since Annika and I had both been to London to do the tourist things already.
  • Local delicacy: London was all about food. Best ever massaman curry, delicious arepas, churros, donuts, dumplings. None of it was really British food, but you don't really go to London for British food.
  • Côte d'Azur
  • High thing: Pretty much every city had a precipice to climb up and look down on. The rock in Monaco and the mountain over Nice stand out.
  • Religious building: The royal chapel in Monaco was adorable. Tiny, compared to the palace, but adorable.
  • Local delicacy: Amazing pizza and pasta, since the region is almost Italy. Also, the spritz at the Buddha Bar. I've been spoiled for spritzes, but I'm heading to Milan in a couple weeks, so we'll see about that.
  • Ireland
  • High thing: All of the hills! Basically the entire county of Kerry is alternating high things and low things, each with a view more spectacular than the last. I also climbed up the Ring Forts and Castle Ballycarberry, near Valentia island.
  • Religious building: The modern religious buildings were less impressive than the ancient: the stone circles and mounds stood out, as did the cemetery in Skibereen.
  • Local delicacy: I never thought I would be saying this, but I miss having my daily blood and suet sausages. I definitely got into black and white puddings, eaten with hash and a fried egg or two.
  • Denmark
  • High thing: So many: the Rundetårn naturally, as well as the towers in Fredriksborg and Kronborg.
  • Religious building: The Rundetårn is part of one. Our Savior's Church was also lovely, with its spire.
  • Local delicacy: Pickled herring and salmon smørrebrød with Doc Nok at the Glyptotek. The pickled herring was surprisingly amazing.
  • Brittany
  • High thing: Mt St Michel definitely wins the contest for the high thing. Runners up are the ramparts of St Malo, the hill on le Grand Bé, and the Parc Thabor in Rennes.
  • Religious building: The abbey in Mt St Michel again easily takes the cake, although the stone church in St Malo and the Rennes cathedral were also both impressive.
  • Local delicacy: Crêpes and galettes (see the full post for much more) and the kouign amann, especially the one from the market.


Written on 8 June in Compiègne.